Curved blade for reciprocating saws

Tom Dunlap

Tom Dunlap

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Retired in Minneapolis
OK...the mini-saw is suspect...this looks legit

I've got a long, coarse, straight blade for my cordless recip saw. Its come in handy for a few specific cuts that would have been dicey with a chainsaw.

Now I see this curved, Japanese-style blade/ in a three pac that aims to replace my trusty Silky product.

www.ezarctools.com

Tree Trimming/Wood Cutting – Japanese Teeth Arc Edge 6 TPI Reciprocating Saw Blade

Need the best reciprocating saw pruning blades? EZARCtools offers premium Arc Edge pruning saw blades for reciprocating saws, perfect for cutting trees and thick branches. With superior durability and a sharp 6TPI design, these blades are your go-to tool for efficient and precise pruning. Order...
www.ezarctools.com www.ezarctools.com

Who else is using a battery reciprocating saw for tree work
 
I had thought about it, and I would swear it's come up somewhere around here before, but in any time I have seen it discussed, there seem to be more reason not to that to do it. I don't have a lot of skin in that game so I forgot exactly how, but I became convinced that they were more dangerous than a chainsaw
 
That sounds like a super valid use. I have some 'wood only' pruning blades for a reciprocating saw, and I used to fall very small trees with it until I got a chainsaw. You can make some nice looking cuts with a little practice.
 
Tom Dunlap said:
OK...the mini-saw is suspect...this looks legit

I've got a long, coarse, straight blade for my cordless recip saw. Its come in handy for a few specific cuts that would have been dicey with a chainsaw.

Now I see this curved, Japanese-style blade/ in a three pac that aims to replace my trusty Silky product.

www.ezarctools.com

Tree Trimming/Wood Cutting – Japanese Teeth Arc Edge 6 TPI Reciprocating Saw Blade

Need the best reciprocating saw pruning blades? EZARCtools offers premium Arc Edge pruning saw blades for reciprocating saws, perfect for cutting trees and thick branches. With superior durability and a sharp 6TPI design, these blades are your go-to tool for efficient and precise pruning. Order...
www.ezarctools.com www.ezarctools.com

Who else is using a battery reciprocating saw for tree work
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Good find. If my sawsall weren't far more cumbersome than a battery Echo I would get some now to try.
 
evo said:
I’ve looked into pruning blades for recip saws, thinking of more disposable options for root pruning. Haven’t come around to ever experimenting with them though.
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If you want blades for a root pruning, look into the really aggressive carbide tipped blades. The pruning blades won't last very long, those carbide tipped blades should.

www.milwaukeetool.com

(1PK) 6" 3 TPI AX™ w/ Carbide Teeth SAWZALL® Blade | Milwaukee Tool

The MILWAUKEE® AX™ with Carbide Teeth for Pruning & Clean Wood SAWZALL® Blades are designed for above & below ground cutting.
www.milwaukeetool.com www.milwaukeetool.com
 
Merle Nelson said:
Good find. If my sawsall weren't far more cumbersome than a battery Echo I would get some now to try.
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Exactly. The ergonomics are terrible for any kind of work from a saddle. I really appreciate the observation though about dirty cutting. I can see a strong argument for keeping one on the truck for any kind of dirty material. Out in brushy country, I get people wanting zones cleared of small woody plants that I know will resprout off the stump unless you can get down into the root crown and sever all above ground cells from the roots. I always felt bad leaving them still technically alive, and the reciprocating saw seems like a viable solution.
 
Reach said:
If you want blades for a root pruning, look into the really aggressive carbide tipped blades. The pruning blades won't last very long, those carbide tipped blades should.

www.milwaukeetool.com

(1PK) 6" 3 TPI AX™ w/ Carbide Teeth SAWZALL® Blade | Milwaukee Tool

The MILWAUKEE® AX™ with Carbide Teeth for Pruning & Clean Wood SAWZALL® Blades are designed for above & below ground cutting.
www.milwaukeetool.com www.milwaukeetool.com
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I might try one of those...but you are right: the others don't last long. I get the 12" blades. They are about $2 each. I use bolt cutters to cut them in half when the front gets dull. Doesn't hurt too bad to throw away $2 blade that has served its purpose. At $5 each...if it saves time, well worth it. But I'm cheap enough I'd try to hold on to those longer LOL
 
Bi-metal blades are more durable in grit than nice big coarse toothed wood blades, finer teeth but they still cut a root with persistence.

Never wield a chainsaw in anger against a root, no matter how pooched the chain and bar, it will only bring more sorrow.
 
Ha! If you ever need to do big roots (10 and 12 inches on some here) consider using the Oregon Insta Sharp kit. You're still going to be some frustrated. You will ruin a chain but, given that you re-sharpen with the saws power in a few seconds it can make it doable to cut for a trench or in tight circumstances to get one situation handled.
 
Power Sharp derail. Taryl's saw seems to be running a conventional chain and sort of resharpens though probably not optimally - 1970's!



edit - this gizmo never addresses the rakers so even with it's weird custom chain tooth shape the performance has to dwindle with each sharpening. The lack of clearance angle on the top of the cutter must be dealt with by the tooth tilting a bit as it is dragged through the cut.
 
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Merle Nelson said:
Ha! If you ever need to do big roots (10 and 12 inches on some here) consider using the Oregon Insta Sharp kit. You're still going to be some frustrated. You will ruin a chain but, given that you re-sharpen with the saws power in a few seconds it can make it doable to cut for a trench or in tight circumstances to get one situation handled.
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I typically bring a half busted chainsaw and save all my worn out chains, I’ll give the chain a few licks down to the absolute last little nubbies specifically for dicy stump cuts and root pruning.
I also have a folding straight blade silky that the tip snapped off of, this works awesome for difficult cuts on roots that are imbedded as there is a tooth on the extreme end of the saw. I’ve snapped an additional inch off when it dulls beyond use with a pair of crescent winches
 
Thanks Merle. I've usually gotten 10 to 20 seconds cutting out of a chain vs root before it's just steam and smoke.


One vid said powersharp started in the 60's. Oregon has a current powersharp corded saw.
 
The Power Sharp that I'm familiar with comes most usable as a kit. It has that yellow plastic device which holds a sharpening stone, a bar that fits your saw and let's the yellow sharpening device fit up to it firmly, and a specific PowerSharp chain.

Yes cutting a big root or few I could get 20 or 30 seconds of decent cutting. Shut off saw, clamp on yellow sharpener, start saw and push nose of yellow device against something to engage sharpener for about 5 seconds while reving saw up to spin chain past sharpening stone. Shut off saw and remove yellow device, get another session of decent to okay cutting in.

I believe I could get about 10 sharpenings in on one stone, important to always mount yellow device facing the same way on bar as you started using that stone.

You can buy replacement stones and replacement chains - or you could when I first tried it. Not the smoothest cutting and I don't know it it ever caught on with homeowners. I would only use it for this specific use.
 
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Oh, by the way, that 60's model powersharp may have been an earlier rendition that failed to catch on. The chain was different. I bought an old Poulan powered one time that came set up that way from the factory.
 
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