Samson Tango Ivy splice type?

[ATH]

Class I eye spice, right?

It sounds like the "when to use" Class I vs Class II is based on rope material? I cannot find the material that Tango Ivy is made from...but assume polyester like most other 24 strand double braid arborist lines?

I've done 16 strand Class I. Am I going to regret trying 24 strand or will I be OK doing the final bury with the aid of hydraulics?

(all this asked with the approach: I'd rather ask dumb questions than make dumb mistakes)

 

[Matias]

Class I eye spice, right?

It sounds like the "when to use" Class I vs Class II is based on rope material? I cannot find the material that Tango Ivy is made from...but assume polyester like most other 24 strand double braid arborist lines?

I've done 16 strand Class I. Am I going to regret trying 24 strand or will I be OK doing the final bury with the aid of hydraulics?

(all this asked with the approach: I'd rather ask dumb questions than make dumb mistakes)

24 strand seems to me to be easier than 16 strand. With hydraulic assistance for the bury, you should have no issues at all. And yes, it's a class 1

 

[Njdelaney]

If you've spliced 16-strand before, this will seem easy to finish. Class 1 all the way.

 

[oldoakman]

You will never splice 16 strand again. Use a wire fid for the final bury of the core and taper the core a bit, just at the end after you put it into the fid, but before you pull it into the cover and it will slip right through.

 

[Matias]

You will never splice 16 strand again. Use a wire fid for the final bury of the core and taper the core a bit, just at the end after you put it into the fid, but before you pull it into the cover and it will slip right through.

Yea, I didn't expect 16 strand to be such a PITA

 

[evo]

Yea, I didn't expect 16 strand to be such a PITA

While 16 can be a pain there are some tricks to make it easier. Requires more ‘infrastructure’ like solid anchor points.

I’ve fount it to be much easier to start the eye with only a 6” bury and get that set and milked. Of course this creates the issue of having to get the bury back down that temp exit point.
The crossover works much better if your able to keep the internals under pressure or just beyond snug tight.

Anymore I’ll measure back from the bitter end of the line about 6”+ make a heavy mark on cover and core. I use this for more working length that just gets cut off later. This allows for making super tapers outside this mark and plenty to anchor to.

Somewhere on here there is an old thread on hand splicing kernmaster and tips/tricks that I’ve adopted into most of my splicing.